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Home3D PrintingThe right way to Succeed when 3D Printing with PETG Filament

The right way to Succeed when 3D Printing with PETG Filament


This in-depth information gives the whole lot it’s good to succeed when printing with PETG filament. Embrace the unbelievable properties of sturdy and simple to print, PETG filament!

Up to date on November 2, 2022

by

MatterHackers

PETG has turn into a very fashionable 3D printing materials because of it is ease of printing, mechanical power, thermal resistance, and unimaginable colour choices because of pure PETG being so clear. There are some things to know earlier than getting began, like the necessity for an all-metal hotend and the need of well-tuned retraction, so we have put all our PETG experience into this text so you may get out of the gates sturdy and begin making wonderful PETG 3D prints at this time. Let’s get into it!

  • Desk of Contents – Soar to PETG 3D Filament Assist Matter You Want

What’s PETG Plastic?

PETG is an especially frequent polymers used at this time that you just seemingly encounter with out even realizing it. Principally any clear plastic bottle goes to be product of PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) or PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate with a glycol modifier) and actually many shopper 3D printers make the most of PETG or some by-product to make-up their 3D printed structural elements. When used as a 3D printing filament, PETG has discovered its house because the extra accessible “sturdy 3D printing filament” as a consequence of its comparatively steady 3D printing properties that make it straightforward to print and but able to being in low-heat or high-strength environments.

You’ll usually see references to PETG in one of many following types: PET, PETG, PETT, and lots of others. This could make it seem to be these are many various filaments when in actuality they’re simply slight variations within the method to create a fabric that’s extra translucent, stronger, or extra versatile. By way of print settings, throughout all these variants they are going to be roughly the identical, with some minor tweaks right here and there to scale back stringing or enhance layer adhesion.

Should you’re used to printing with PLA, you then may not have thought-about a singular attribute of PETG: that it is ductile. The place PLA might be able to stand up to extra power with out breaking, when it hits the brink the place it will break it is vitally sudden and with out warning. In distinction, PETG will bend somewhat earlier than it breaks, so you may see a failure earlier than it occurs. It is the totally different of printing a PETG shelf bracket that is beginning to droop and a PLA shelf bracket that dumps your books onto your desk and displays.

With PETG you may also take that ductility and use it within the design of some purposefully versatile geometry. Snap match enclosures, the place small tabs bend out of the best way and snap right into a channel as soon as a lid is absolutely pressed in place, are a phenomenal alternative to make the most of PETG. Or you may design a component that should rigidly maintain one thing else with out being too tough to insert, like a bearing holder on a 3D printer half.

PETG 3D printing filament is a great material for functional prototypes and end-use parts.

PETG 3D printing filament is a superb materials for useful prototypes and end-use elements.

{Hardware} Necessities

Hotends

There are a lot of variations to the PETG method, which makes specifying one temperature to print at a tough declare. Some have components that deliver their printing temperature considerably decrease whereas others deliver the temperature considerably increased. Basically, begin with 245°C and mess around with 5°C increased or decrease to seek out the best print high quality for you.

Some 3D printers make the most of a PTFE (teflon) lined hotend as it’s simpler to fabricate than a hotend that’s all-metal from the heatsink to the nozzle. PETG’s printing temperature is true on the threshold of the temperature that PTFE begins to degrade, so some 3D printers would possibly be capable of get away with lower-temperature PETG filaments which have a great temperature at 240°C or much less. For essentially the most half, PETG does require an all-metal hotend to have the ability to tune your filament to its fullest, as in whereas you will have profitable prints at 240°C, you do not obtain full power till 255°C.

Normally, PETG is non-abrasive, however when you begin taking part in with components it turns into a case-by-case foundation. Sparkly filament is not abrasive regardless of having non-PETG materials in it, but it surely’s frequent so as to add carbon-fiber to extend the stiffness and power of the completed 3D prints, which is extraordinarily abrasive. A straightforward strategy to keep away from these considerations is to swap over to an Olsson Ruby nozzle or a Nozzle X while you wish to use these supplies.

Layer cooling is just sometimes mandatory. This does rely on the 3D fashions truly being printed, as reasonably sized fashions will be printed with out cooling and are available out superbly, however tall and skinny fashions with brief layer occasions may have some light cooling to carry its form. 50% is the utmost you will want for excessive overhangs or brief layers, in any other case you’re free to depart the fan off for the most effective layer adhesion attainable.

E3D v6 All-metal Hotend

 


Mattress Necessities

For the most effective likelihood of success, it would be best to ensure you have a heated mattress set to 65°C. Some PETG is extra warp-prone than others, so increased temperatures could also be required to present them sufficient adhesion to the mattress. Should you’re having problem, bump the temperature up by 5°C at a time till adhesion improves.

As for the mattress floor itself, you will have fairly a couple of choices to work with, protecting in thoughts that it isn’t an exhaustive record, simply the massive gamers. Let’s check out every floor individually:

  • LayerLock Powder-Coated PEI – A textured, versatile construct floor that may add a singular look to your 3D prints. Be sure to have already got a magnetic system in place for this to work correctly and preserve it clear with the best share isopropyl alcohol you will discover. Chances are you’ll have to “smoosh” the primary layer a bit greater than you are used to to get it to stay, however as soon as it’s cooled it often pops off with out touching it.
  • LayerLock Garolite – Whereas it’s the very best floor for 3D printing with nylon, LayerLock Garolite continues to be fairly versatile and can be utilized to help PETG 3D printing. It would be best to use any of the adhesives listed beneath to get further mattress adhesion to lock down your PETG 3D prints. Somewhat roughing up with some high-grit sandpaper may also refresh your garolite and provides it extra chunk in your 3D prints to carry onto.
  • Glass – If you need a shiny clean backside to your 3D prints, that is the best way to go. It would be best to use an adhesive of some type although (verify the record beneath) as a launch agent as some customers have torn chunks of glass out of their mattress because it adheres to their clear PETG print’s first layer.
  • BuildTak – An adhesive sheet you may apply on to your 3D printer’s mattress or on prime of a Flexplate. No adhesive resolution mandatory, merely wait in your mattress to chill and use a BuildTak spatula or twist the Flexplate to take away your print. A phrase of warning although, as printing too near the BuildTak can completely bond the 2 collectively and tear chunks of it off your printer’s mattress.
  • BuildTak PEI – An adhesive sheet you may apply on to your 3D printer’s mattress or on prime of a Flexplate. Principally magic. Sticks strong when scorching and pops off with a mild faucet when cool. Chances are you’ll have to bump the temperature up barely to get sufficient adhesion to stay (close to 70°C ought to be loads). A skinny smear of an adhesive is very really useful to stop the PETG from completely bonding to the PEI.
  • GeckoTek – An adhesive sheet you may apply on to your 3D printer’s mattress or on prime of a Flexplate. Accessible in each a cold and hot variant to raised swimsuit the capabilities that your 3D printer has.
  • Wham Bam PEX – A complete versatile mattress system adhered to the 3D printer’s mattress. A robust magnet retains the spring metal with an adhesive sheet of PEX utilized to it secured to the printer’s mattress through the print, however will be simply eliminated and flexed to pop your print off.

There are at all times new and thrilling strategies for mattress adhesion being developed, so it is essential to have a very good grasp on what every technique is finest used for. You may try our 3D Printing Necessities article about mattress surfaces to totally perceive the professionals and cons of each mattress floor you would possibly come throughout whereas 3D printing.

Along with construct floor upgrades, there are additionally all kinds of 3D printer adhesives which you could apply to your 3D printer’s mattress to get an amazing first layer. These adhesives are particularly developed for the 3D printing trade, so you may belief they’ve been examined to be tried and true 3D printer adhesives. Listed here are the most effective 3D printer adhesives that you need to use to get the most effective first layer for PETG filament: 

Most 3D printer mattress adhesives have the identical directions to be used: apply a skinny layer to the construct floor the place your actively 3D printing. Then, wait in your half to chill earlier than eradicating – ready in your 3D printed half to chill makes it a lot simpler to take away, and sure adhesives will typically even “pop” the half up and doing as soon as cooled. 

High quality PRO Series PETG 3D printing filament is the top choice for when you need reliable printing for every project.

Top quality PRO Collection PETG 3D printing filament is the best choice for while you want dependable printing for each venture.

Altering Your PETG 3D Printing Filament

When switching between two PETG spools and colours:

  1. Whereas the extruder is chilly set the warmth to 245°C and await it to warmth up.
  2. Whenever you attain 245°C, launch pressure on the extruder (by both squeezing the stress launch, flipping a latch, or utterly unscrewing the adjustable tensioner), and shortly, however constantly pull on the filament to take away it from the hotend with out breaking.
  3. Proceed releasing pressure on the extruder and insert the brand new filament till it reaches the nozzle.
  4. Run the brand new colour via the extruder till it runs clear and the brand new colour is all that’s popping out of the extruder. In case you are switching from a darkish colour (akin to black) to a light-weight colour (like white or pure) run some time longer to make certain you haven’t any darkish contamination. With out this step it is attainable to be a pair layers in and have the final little bit of filament lastly purge out.

Getting the First Layer of Your PETG 3D Printed Half Proper

The primary layer is an important a part of any print – it units the inspiration that the whole print builds on. You may try the in-depth article on how you can get an ideal first layer right here, or for a quick abstract of what to contemplate beneath are the few issues it’s good to do to get the primary layer to stay nicely.

  1. You want the print mattress to be stage.
  2. You want the nozzle to be the proper distance from the mattress at the beginning of the 3D print.
  3. You want a very good base materials in your PETG to stick to.

Under is a video from MatterHackers’ 3D Printing Necessities sequence that can assist information you in the precise route for getting a stellar first layer. On this video, we’ll stroll you thru the steps talked about above intimately so you may succeed when 3D printing with PETG filament.

 

Tough When Moist

There are 3D printing supplies that are hygroscopic, which suggests it should actively take in moisture from the air. This can be a issue which you could’t change within the materials, so a hygroscopic materials overlooked for lengthy sufficient will attain saturation till it may now not take in water. Fortunately this can be a absolutely reversible course of with none materials degradation. Finest practices earlier than 3D printing with any PETG filament is to totally dry it out with a PrintDry PRO for a number of hours (or in a single day if in case you have the time) and print with it instantly. Until you reside someplace extraordinarily humid with none temperature controls, your spool of PETG ought to be dry sufficient to be used for a number of weeks earlier than needing to be dried again out once more.

Moist 3D printing filament would not simply influence the looks of your 3D print, however breaks down the molecular chains and creates a considerably weaker 3D print, which is why it is so essential to ensure your filament is dry. Take a look at our in-depth article on how moisture impacts your filament, and how one can efficiently dry your 3D filament right here. 

PETG 3D Printing filament is a durable and easy-to-print materials making it great for functional, end-use parts.

PETG 3D Printing filament is a sturdy and easy-to-print supplies making it nice for useful, end-use elements.

What to do When Issues go Incorrect When Utilizing PETG 3D Printing Filament – PETG Filament Troubleshooting

There are a couple of key issues to verify when your prints aren’t working.  However earlier than we have a look at options we have to have a quick description of your signs.

“I can not inform if my printing temperature is true “What to Search for if you’re having hassle getting your PETG filament temperature proper:

  1. If the temperature is simply too excessive
    PETG tends to get stringier the upper you are taking the temperature. Small cobweb like strings will internet between totally different elements of the 3D print till it will definitely balls up and sticks to your nozzle, heater block, or wall of your progressing 3D print. So long as you’re assured that your filament is dry and you’re nonetheless encountering stringing, decrease the temperature by 5°C and see if that improves the scenario. If not, chances are you’ll simply want to regulate your retraction settings for this barely extra flowy PETG.
  2. If the temperature is simply too chilly
    You’ll both see that the filament is just not sticking to the earlier layer or that much less filament is being extruded than mandatory. You’re going to get a component that’s not sturdy and will be pulled aside simply or visually has many small voids alongside its partitions the place filament could not be extruded nicely sufficient.  In both case, you must improve the temperature by 5°C and check out once more till you get constant extrusion and layers that absolutely adhere to one another.

“I can not get the primary layer to stay.”

  1. Be certain the nozzle is on the proper peak.
    Take a look at the
    3D printing Necessities: Mattress Leveling for what to search for in a great first layer. PETG, opposite to nearly each different materials, truly prefers to be “laid down” onto the floor reasonably than smeared into it. Elevate your nozzle out of your mattress ever so barely so it isn’t as squished as traditional.
  2. Be certain the print mattress is stage.
    Take a look at the 3D printing Necessities: Mattress Leveling for finest practices when leveling your mattress. If a part of the mattress is simply too removed from the nozzle and the opposite a part of the mattress is simply too shut, filament can drag round and create compounding issues.

“The half has dangerous inside layers and prime surfaces.”

  1. Examine the temperatures. 
    Be sure to’re printing on the proper temperature and that your mattress is the precise temperature. Too chilly on both of those and there will not be sufficient adhesion between the 2 surfaces.
  2. Examine the filament pressure.
    Too unfastened and the extruder gears will not have the chunk they should push the filament round, too tight and filament will be deformed and never extrude reliably.
  3. Clear the filament drive gear (if it appears clogged).
    Should you had a print fail the place the job continued however no filament was being extruded, then the drive gear seemingly chewed a spot within the filament and crammed its tooth with filament, decreasing its general grip.

“The skin edges of my elements have numerous little bumps on them.”

  1. Be certain your printer is getting sufficient knowledge.
    If printing from a pc, make sure that the pc is just not too busy to feed the printer instructions. If the printer is pausing it’s often because of the printer being too busy.
  2. Print from SD card.
    You may get round this by printing from an SD card. Generally this implies you lose the flexibility to regulate the printer out of your PC, however its a assured strategy to take away your PC’s {hardware} capabilities from the equation.
  3. Supply higher PETG.
    Now we have discovered that the standard of your print materials can have a huge impact on the standard of your half.  Getting higher PETG can assist you get higher elements.  Nevertheless, do not be too fast to imagine the issue is in your PETG.  With the precise settings and persistence hobbyists have succeeded in printing all types of supplies lots of which have very low viscosity and inconsistency.  You need to be capable of get a minimum of usable elements even with some decrease high quality filament.
  4. Your retraction settings want tuning.
    In case your retractions settings aren’t set proper, your printer might be overextruding after every retraction leaving little bumps on the location the place it began extruding once more. Play with the “additional restart distance” and see if that helps.
  5. Your filament is moist.
    Many filaments can take in water from the air and PETG is likely one of the most infamous. As a result of PETG is hygroscopic, it’s good to dry your spool earlier than utilizing it, which may simply be finished utilizing a PrintDry PRO to drag the moisture out of your filament. When not in use, you may also use silica gel packets to stop your spool from reabsorbing water, however these packets will not pull moisture that’s already current within the filament.

“Tall sections of my prints look melted or squished collectively.”

  1. Print a couple of half at a time.
    By including extra elements to the construct plate you’re growing the general cross sectional space of every layer, giving extra time for the separate objects to chill than in the event that they have been printed on their very own. Since you may’t use an excessive amount of layer cooling with out shedding layer adhesion, including extra elements to the construct plate is an appropriate resolution.

“My printer won’t put out any materials.”

  1. Be certain your scorching finish is getting scorching.
    Examine that the recent finish is heating in any respect.  If it’s not it’s good to have your printer serviced.  It’s seemingly that you’ve a unfastened connection or your electronics have been fried (assuming the printer continues to be linked and responding to your host software program :).
  2. Clear the drive gear and alter pressure.
    The very first thing we’re going to do is clear the filament touching drive gear and make sure that we’ve got correct pressure in opposition to the filament.  Normally improper pressure or a clogged drive gear will make the print look extra like the image we’ve got for low temperature filament, but it surely typically does stop extrusion all collectively.  Clear the pinch wheel with a wire brush, and ensure your pressure is sweet and strong (an excessive amount of may also stop extrusion and is extra frequent with direct drives [the motor is directly connected to the drive gear] however much less frequent with geared drives).
  3. Take away the present filament.
    It might be that you’ve a small particle in your extruder tip jamming the plastic.  Use the change filament approach described above to drag out any particles which are within the extruder tip.
  4. Examine for and take away jams between the extruder and scorching finish.
    That is essentially the most excessive sort of drawback as a result of now it’s time to take issues aside.  Generally warmth can creep up the filament within the extruder and trigger a bulge that then cools and prevents any additional extrusion.  That is often on the junction between the extruder and scorching finish.  Take off the extruder and take away all of the PETG you may (chances are you’ll want the recent finish scorching  (80c-100c) to get all the fabric out.  If you cannot get out all of the filament by pulling it out chances are you’ll have to try to drive it down via the recent finish. We often use a small allen wrench.  If this fails you may try to drill out the extruder or scorching finish however chances are you’ll want to exchange elements.  You’ll want to take precautions in opposition to being shocked or burned.  In case you are not certified to do that work discover somebody who’s, reasonably than threat harm.

Thanks for studying How To Succeed When Printing In PETG.

Completely satisfied Printing! – MatterHackers

P.S. Take a look at our Filament Comparability Information to get the news on all the newest and biggest filaments! Or browse the MatterHackers Retailer for all of your filament wants.

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